Asked how the beautiful, elaborate illustrations that defined this collection transferred from 2D to dress, Nicky Zimmermann motioned to a model standing nearby and outlined how a landscape print extended from the underside of one arm, across the body, and over to the other. Although you can only glean scattered details from the runway photos of the fluid batwing dress or floaty skirt, were these garments part of your wardrobe, you would find yourself appreciating their embedded art.
They came from several sources including 1920s fashion magazine covers (used with permission, of course) and, more surprisingly, from the Australian actor Barry Otto, who drew the Aubrey Beardsley-meets-‘70s illustrations of the opening looks. “I could not put this incredible art on a tube dress,” Zimmermann amused.
Not that she ever would. From the billowing blouses—a nod to artist smocks—to the tiers of godet pleats, Zimmermann has spent three decades creating allure through soft volumes that move with ease. Today, there was a lot of swish and sumptuousness: flounces concentrated down low, large sequins on flapper sheaths, handkerchief appliqués puffed up by tulle. Amidst the delicate lace, basketweave knit and supple leather, proportions appeared thoughtfully considered to arrive at ultra-feminine silhouettes. “It’s very much about doing what we love doing; we don’t deviate,” Zimmermann said.
Recently, though, the brand has been tracking towards mannish—both sartorial and workwear—yet styled with animal print or sparkle as though reveling in a certain duality. It’s a smart evolution. Through a decidedly Zimmermann lens, a denim flight suit, ample trousers and chore coats confirm there is more than party dressing here.
Where other collections have not shied away from a peep show this season, Zimmermann developed pretty lingerie that could kickstart a new category. Given the brand’s private equity windfall last summer, expansion in all directions is surely top of mind, and a must-have Zimmermann bag seems like a no-brainer. Retail, meanwhile, is in overdrive with at least 10 store openings slated before the end of the year. Soon, women in Dubai, Monaco, Austin, Munich, Venice and beyond will be discovering dresses that feel tried and true. This was a collection that will speak any language.
