Wherever Zuhair Murad’s inspirations wander, the forecast remains constant: shine with 100% percent chance of showers—of crystals ranging in size from droplet to hailstone, sequins, beading, pearls and more—and that’s not counting the many that skittered over the mosaic runway in the Musée des Arts Deco, causing a frenzy among guests as soon as the designer took his bow.
Backstage before the show, a black gown floated by dripping rivulets of crystal. It was, Murad explained, one of the first creations he came up with for a collection called A Sheer Desire, a tribute to Hollywood’s golden era and femmes fatales like Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Rita Hayworth, and their ilk, back when talkies were the TikTok of the day.
“It was the first time you heard their voices; these were very strong women who were also sensual, confident, and captivating,” Murad offered. Indeed, these power-shouldered, sequined peignoirs would have been just as at home on those film sets as they were on the runway. In lieu of diamonds and mink came faux fur—a first in the designer’s repertoire—cut into glossy evening coats and jackets winking with jewel embellishments.
Feathers are trending for next season; here, a black velvet dress etched with a silvery feather motif from high collar to hem made a dramatic statement. Also new for Murad was a palette of rich nudes ranging from barely-there illusion tulle to golden beige and chocolate, punctuated occasionally with deep burgundy or teal.
And though the designer said his ready-to-wear bridal collection continues to boom, for Paris he decided against closing with a bridal gown. “It didn’t feel modern,” he explained. That was a good call: it would have been quite a trick to follow such richly wrought creations, though there was also a quieter strength to be found in a butterscotch draped gown or a chocolate bustier dress. Clearly, with this collection, Murad was in his element.
