“There are so many people with deep cracks in this world.” Those were the words in the show notes placed under heart-shaped stress balls on each seat at Masayuki Ino’s Doublet show. As Ino was summoned from backstage to the front of house for a pre-show chat, the soundcheck played a constant loop of thunderstorm noises; outside, the skies opened in Paris for the nth time this Fashion Week. For a designer with a reputation for being the resident funnyman on the Paris men’s schedule, things seemed to have taken a darker, moodier turn.
Ino said through a translator that he was focused on villains this season. But, rather, it seemed like he was focused on righteousness and its impact on people. Everyone has a defect, but should everyone be villainized for it?
A keen observer of culture and people, Ino embraced the most evil and sinful of tropes and archetypes on the runway. The collection was at times overt and literal—see the references to DC Comics’ “the Joker” character or a pink terry robe with the Disney version of Alice in Wonderland’s Cheshire Cat. At other times, the more effective ones, the show was either subtle or ingenious—an “I <3 Me” tee summoned every phone camera in the room, as did the dress shoes with their toe caps lifted to reveal a red leather interior that rendered them a monster’s mouth.
The true content catnip, and most poignant cultural commentary—came by way of a couple of Birkin-style handbags: “The Wirkin!” captioned a colleague when he posted them on Instagram, in reference to the viral “Walmart Birkin” Hermès dupe. It was a funny thing to throw into a room full of people who live and breathe luxury fashion, even if aspirationally. This is the kind of observation that goes over most people’s heads, which makes you think that it’s fine that it does. We can let some things simply befunny. This is one of Ino’s most compelling qualities as a designer, that he allows his ideas to be entertaining at face value with an invitation for reflection. To go back to his notes on righteousness: Who amongst us has not considered purchasing a dupe? If that is you then please, by all means, cast the first stone.
