Following on from spring 2025, which saw her explore different parts of herself, Ashley Williams was homing in on the idea of girlhood this season. “I feel like I’m in this space where I’m looking back and holding on to something, not knowing how to step out of it,” she explained in a preview. Now in her 30s, the designer is grappling with the question of having children. “It’s bringing up so much,” she continued. “Like, I’m an adult, but still there’s parts of me that don’t feel like I’ve graduated.”
It makes sense, then, that fall 2025 saw the return of the girlish—babyish, even—pieces from last season, from manga-inspired prints on hoodies and sweatpants (similar to those seen on baby rompers) to AI-generated cats on skirts and shrunken tees. Continuing the theme was a statement dress overladen with colorful beads sourced during a trip to Seoul, alongside sailor dresses and pleated skirts in an array of ice-cream-sundae pastels.
The look book, styled by friend and designer turned artist Claire Barrow, reflects the kitsch feel of the collection, with the models—rendered anonymous by the hair covering their faces—dressed like dolls. At times, it veers into bad-taste territory (see the heart-shaped ruffled bags inspired by toilet-roll covers), but that’s a concept Williams actively embraces. “I’ve always been drawn to bad taste,” she explained. “When things are out of fashion, I find that interesting.”
After more than a decade in the fashion industry, Williams has been around long enough to experience that cycle firsthand. While designers typically reach a stage where they feel the need to grow up, it’s refreshing to see Williams still marching to the beat of her own drum. “I actually feel like the last few collections of my whole career have been the ones I feel are the most genuine,” she reflected. “I’ve tuned into what [feels] most authentic.”
