Ilenia Durazzi launched her eponymous label only a few seasons ago, yet she has already positioned it as one of the most accomplished of Italy’s upcoming fashion brands. With experience at Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière and within the Martin Margiela collective, her fashion foundations are solid, complemented by an understanding of contemporary art and a lifelong passion for horseback riding. These influences converge in Durazzi Milano, where elegant minimalism meets high-end craftsmanship, all infused with a distinctive artistic twist.
Durazzi Milano’s collections have so far been unveiled through staged performances featuring artistic interventions, and that format continued for fall at the brand’s new headquarters, a repurposed industrial space. Titled Acoustic Garden, the presentation was designed as an immersive sensory experience, drawing inspiration from sound art, Krautrock, the cosmic music of the ’70s, and the work of American composer and installation artist Maryanne Amacher.
The space was transformed into a recording studio, where a group of female musicians wearing outfits from the collection performed experimental, introspective, trippy cosmic music. The almost meditative sounds were diffused through totemic speaker installations and subtly absorbed by antique, desaturated carpets scattered throughout the room. “I’m not particularly interested in working with influencers, celebrities, or brand ambassadors,” Durazzi remarked. “I’d rather see my clothes worn by women I respect from the worlds of art, music, literature, or fashion—women who genuinely appreciate them and belong to the same cultural circles that inspire me.”
The carpets covering the floor were not only visually compelling but also hinted at the tactile quality of the collection, emphasizing its focus on the textural and handmade. Among the standout pieces was a series of sleeveless dresses handcrafted from thick patchwork featuring asymmetrical, raw-edge handkerchief hems that mirrored the carpets’ geometric motifs. Durazzi embraces what she described as “minimalism with a rich human touch”—a balance of precision and sensualism. Her approach contrasts rigorous tailoring with tactile fabrics; artisanal craftsmanship played against metallic details with a kinky edge; and prim, pleated feminine kilts that unexpectedly open to reveal built-in masculine trousers. “Disturbances and clashes give rise to new aesthetics,” she observed.
A skilled horsewoman, Durazzi infuses luxurious equestrian accents into her collections, weaving natural horsehair into select textures and crafting the stiff, tall riding boots that have become her label’s signature from expensive leather. Instinct tempered by discipline and discipline energized by instinct: This seems to be the dynamic tension at the heart of Durazzi Milano, and it will likely continue to drive it forward.
