Giambattista Valli wants his dresses to feel “like a caress. There are already enough fireworks going off in the world today,” he said backstage before his show. “I’d rather offer a sense of comfort, a moment of elegance, and calm—that’s what fashion should bring, or at least this is what I’m trying to convey.”
The collection, presented in the salons of the Hotel Pozzo di Borgo, Karl Lagerfeld’s former hôtel particulier, was indeed serene and covetable, accented with a dash of Valli-esque frivolity. Drawing inspiration from the late ’60s—a time of freedom, curiosity, and cultural openness—he crafted lithe, elongated silhouettes alternating with flowy boho styles, all emphasizing movement and ease. Bell-shaped palazzo pants paired with bias-cut matching tops, slender tweed redingotes layered over slim coordinating trousers, and minidresses tucked beneath voluminous wool coats—crafted to mimic the texture of fur—were rich and sumptuous. Meanwhile, long, billowing chiffon dresses, delicately embroidered with floral motifs, captured a breezy, graceful spirit.
Elsewhere, short dresses were appliquéd with Chantilly lace for a hint of Parisian je ne sais quoi. Standout pieces included a fluid, draped dress in shimmering gold and a series of flowing evening gowns in finely draped and pleated jersey, showcasing couture techniques with a softer, more minimalist bent. Valli is never far from the intricacies of couture, yet here his touch was lighter, easy, harmonious.
