Although no kid paraded down the runway this season, Vivetta Ponti’s creations are always talking a child-at-heart lingo, one to have fun with. “I called this dress Little Red Riding Hood as it was really born from an evening reading fairy tales with my children,” said the designer, pointing to a graceful scarlet chiffon. Vivetta s fall 2025 collection played with shapes more than fabrics, branching once more from her previous explorations, with multiple trompe-l’oeil pieces magically carried by the wind. The ruffled hems of skirts, created with jackets’ striped viscose linings, projected the image, but it was accessories that carried the most weight. Necklaces, papillons and knots hid a metallic wire that turned them into organic imaginative figures: “I call them flying bows because it is as if while you re getting dressed a waft of air disarranges your look,” Ponti said.
Collars, center of attention since the brand’s early days, set the neck free from their control melting down to the front of the clothes, fooling the eye with their childlike shrunken size while shoulders were padded in an oversized approach to outerwear, as in timeless classic coats. Vivetta’s legendary hands brought their red nail polish far from the neck as well, morphing into a knotted bow or turning into the softest gloves. “The surrealism is palpable in the daywear pieces I re-elaborated with fun,” said the designer. The color palette, with black and gray borrowed from a man’s wardrobe, reflected the dawn-to-dark choice with cream, aqua green pastels and flashes of passionate red. Cool wool defined more structured silhouettes pushing wool fabrics onto dresses and trousers for the first time, alongside crêpe de chine, georgette and lace. What was once loungewear, now hit the streets thanks to altered volumes, as in the jumbo lingerie look and the puffy ballerinas.
Chasing after embroidery, what looked like golden glows from afar turned into greenery tricks when up close. Yellow blossoms were butterflies, zucchini flowers or cherry tomatoes; pea pods modeled jewelry too, with falling pearls and twirling leaf tendrils. Inside Vivetta’s imagination, sleeves became balaclavas while blown up open ties turned into scarfs, and finally satin bags were hand pierced hearts. Highlighting once again her wittiness, models walked the finale to the meows of a “What Was I Made For?” cover by Bongo Cat.
