This season, Meruert Tolegen kept things intimate, clearing out her SoHo boutique for a moody presentation. As models slowly traversed raised platforms, the dark-washed walls, dim lighting, and violinist Taisiya Losmakova’s performance of “deconstructed” versions of Mozart’s “Lacrimosa” and Bach’s Partita No. 2 in D minor worked to add to the mystique. Overhead lights bore down on the garments while guests circulated the edges on the room, relegated to the shadows.
Intimacy was also found in the collection’s details. While many silhouettes, like 18th century panniers, returned from her previous runway collection, Tolegen found ways to give them minute alterations that felt mature. For example, one corseted dress with bustled hips was paired with a cropped jacket made from braided synthetic hair and looked luxe under the glaring lights–a welcome contrast to some of last season’s lightness.
The more relaxed looks followed a similar path. Uncorseted garments took a firmer shape, like in a knit sweater and pussy bow blouse. Meanwhile, wool herringbone pieces, like a structured synthetic hair-trimmed jacket, brought needed weight. The former CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist is finding her groove.
