For a brand that has reached its decade milestone, Ottolinger remains as feisty as ever, no plateauing in sight. For today’s show, Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient took over a floor of the recently vacated Ami offices, and to throw the dichotomy of Paris and Berlin into sharp relief, they blacked out the entire space save for an open window overlooking the grandeur of the Place des Victoires. The seating of wood planks laid atop concrete blocks placed us near the ground—like we were in a supported squat, like they were keeping it real.
Yet for all the traces of past collectsions, there was a strong feeling that the designers were elevating their repertoire. For starters, there was a lot more leather and the cuts—from biker jackets to blazers—were sharp and precise. Instead of a low-rise, leg-skimming moto pant, they leaned towards low-rise trousers with lace defining the space between waistline and midriff. Pinstripes played out across bow blouses and minidresses while they pushed their penchant for velour leisure wear, now as a draped skirt. Toggles from duffle coats were transposed to faux fur cropped jackets and satin dresses, and drawcords extended upward from bras, as though après ski and after-party were one and the same. Towards the end came a series of dresses that seemed destined for baddies who would be inclined to wear dirndl silhouettes updated with neoprene and sheer mesh. There has always been some aspect of Ottolinger that seems suited to music videos and concert fashion; with this line-up, artists (including guys, as a few came down the runway) would be spoiled for choice.
To oozing club beats supplied by Lolahol, the professional name of Lourdes Leon, daughter of Madonna, Bösch and Gadient’s riffs on risqué actually began as a nod to the work of artist Isa Genzken and her 2014 exhibition title, The Only Female Fool. They explained that they proudly identify as “female fools” insofar as holding firm to their independence as designers—for better or worse. “To us, that’s the biggest luxury, freedom,” said Bösch, with Gadient adding, “also now, with everything going on, a show can seem foolish in a way.”
Still, this was an occasion to celebrate, and the designers brought out their team in recognition of the collectsive effort. When asked what they would hypothetically change into post-show, Bösch leaned towards a tougher black leather look, while Gadient singled out one of the cozier fits. They were pleased to be showing on International Women’s Day and hope—without seeming foolish, of course—to see Ottolinger thrive through the next decade.
