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Chitose Abe launched Sacai Luck in 2006 as a lingerie collection, and over the years it s evolved into a full-blown line. A handy way to think about the label is as the Miu Miu to her signature brand s Prada. It s less a lower-priced diffusion offering than it is a place for Abe to experiment with more playful looks. Hybrids are her defining preoccupation at Sacai, and they re just as important here, only she s less concerned about creating new silhouettes and more focused on having fun.

A dress was pieced together from flannel tartan and sparkly leopard-spot jacquard; the effect was grunge princess. Elsewhere, Abe tweaked expectations, adding a sporty drawstring waistband to menswear trousers and a lace-trimmed silk slip underneath a pinstriped pencil skirt with a deep slit. A button-down shirt and long, narrow wool skirt was actually a trompe l oeil dress. Among the lineup s many cool sweaters, a brightly colored, patterned poncho and a patchworked fisherman s knit stood out.

Versatility was built into a lot of the outerwear: The sleeves of a leather biker jacket, for example, zipped off so it could double as a vest. Clever thinking also informed Abe s new shoe collaboration. Her lambswool-lined Vans are sure to be a hit.