Plenty of designers lament delivery schedules: Why ship cold-weather merch in mid-spring when there are months of 95-degree forecasts ahead? Few of them truly act on that frustration. There have been countless fur jackets and coats in the Pre-Fall collections, for example. Not at Rag Bone. Marcus Wainwright has been talking about delivering the right clothes for the right season for years, and his new lineup stays true to that formula. A sunset sweater with an image lifted from a vintage postcard, one of the collection’s central motifs, was made from lightweight cotton. Pants modeled after SAS uniforms came with a drawstring waist and a breezy loose fit, and the label’s bread-and-butter shirting featured the circa now-requisite cut-out shoulders and deconstructed asymmetries.
Rag Bone is turning 15 in 2017. The brand has been denim-focused since the beginning, and Wainwright and his team have a natural feel for the stuff. There was a good variety of it here: The fit of a jacket in Japanese selvedge denim was slightly oversize, as rigid as a quilted denim jacket and miniskirt were soft. Another jacket with a boxy shape was cut in a camo-pattern denim jacquard, a treatment that felt fresh. To accessorize all that indigo, Wainwright had lived-in-looking garment-dyed sweatshirts, a souvenir jacket with a sunset embroidery, and a just-launched range of eight fragrances. The scent development process was such a kick, he reports, that he’s working on candles next.
