"My Resort is specific—I have my vacation places," Elise Øverland explained in her studio. And in turn, those places—India in particular—explained her point of reference: the chic air hostess uniforms Pierre Cardin designed for Pakistan s PIA airline in the late sixties. Ergo, gauzy silks and hooded caftans in neutral desert tones. Maybe it s the cover-up culture of the subcontinent that informed the longer lengths and looser drapes—a few floor-grazing maxi skirts, poncho wraps, and jackets with oversize lapels—still, the collection felt fresh. "I don t feel like wearing short things anymore," Øverland said. "I don t feel powerful in them." Those who do will find tiny shorts and miniskirts and a selection of the fitted leather pieces she s known for, like a shaved-leather jacket thin enough to be balled up and tossed in a suitcase. But it was the collection s softer notes that made the most impact. Has the rocker stylist given up her edge? Ah, no—there s the kickass high-necked parka, which looked borrowed from the boys.
