Bikers, rockabilly chicks, and kilts made up the curious mix of influences Ennio Capasa channeled for Resort. The result provided a new answer to the old question about what s black, white, and red all over. It s a Costume National collection. (In this case, one with a few too many moto jacket details.)
Capasa s experiments with lipstick red had echoes of Spring 11, which was all about minimal shapes in eye-popping tones. The graphicism here was new, though: Digital prints of Prince of Wales, houndstooth, and checkerboard appeared on short shifts, silk blouses, pleated kilt skirts, and cropped cigarette pants. But the best parts of the collection weren t printed or bright. They were from the small series of blush pink tailored pieces that reminded you of Costume s heyday as the go-to label for a sharp suit. The shade softened them a bit from their edgy former glory, and they looked fresh again. Look closely and you d notice the technique and craft that goes into them. You could see it, too, in cropped tuxedo jackets that had been heat-bonded. Capasa instructed his fabricators to leave a little note of evidence of the iron: a slight, almost imperceptible burn mark around the pockets.
