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Nick Cave s dynamic Soundsuits inspired the exuberance of Aimee Cho s latest collection. "Of course I d never compare my work to his," she said. "But I did think a lot about these sculptures he makes that come to life on a body."

The electric jolt was felt in a washed fluorescent-coral army jacket—refined by sleek pockets—and a black barn coat, the back embroidered with an abstract orange and gold floral that almost resembled a goldfish. While those particular toppers gave off a casual vibe, there were great office-appropriate items, too. A Japanese sweatshirt material, for instance, was patched together with a coral-accented basket-weave jacquard to form a surprisingly unfussy blazer. Cho is offering her standard styles—a trench, mini trench, and cropped peacoat—in a cotton woven with metal to make it water resistant. The subtle shimmer from the metal adds just the teensiest bit of opulence to otherwise utilitarian pieces. (No, it doesn t rust.)

The designer launched Gryphon in 2006 as a collection of coats, and after veering into ready-to-wear for a while, she has chosen to refocus strictly on outerwear. That tunnel vision is good for the market, since one can never have too many coats, especially ones as special—and functional—as these.