Jil Sander, no matter who s designing it, is very much about shirting. For Resort, the team at Jil Sander Navy, the house s secondary collection, decided to elongate the boyfriend shirt and use it as a layering piece under skirts, dresses, and coats. (Each of these knee-length shirts could also easily be worn alone.) The technique created depth, especially when a long button-up shirt in the season s abstract floral was tucked into a cotton front-pocket skirt in the same print, or a white apron top peeked out of the bottom of a black tank dress with an asymmetrical hem.
There was a focus on the waist, too, with wide belts cinching together otherwise straight silhouettes. The confident color palette of red, blue, and green was offset by just a few prints, as well as a black, blue, and shocking red mobile pattern on a pair of boyish pleated shorts and a matching button-up. The knitwear, too, played with Calder-esque ideas: A green skirt with a rounded hem was paired with a white sweater in a green, red, and black intarsia print.
The plan for this collection was that it would feel just a bit more youthful than past efforts. The team accomplished that without sacrificing the go-to pieces that many customers might consider staples, such as the navy blazers and cotton overcoats. All in all, there was something very satisfying about what was presented.
