There was no theme to this latest collection from Zuhair Murad, who typically falls under the spell of narratives that ricochet from mythical to architectural and back again. In a way, this worked in his favor because it allowed him to present graphic, floral, shockingly pink, and femme fatale groupings all without forcing a link. But in fact, there was one—the same one that has always defined Murad as a designer: flagrantly feminine glamour.
In the broadest terms, this lineup reissued all of his favorite silhouettes: requisite flounced frocks, body-con dresses, siren gowns, jumpsuits, and evening suiting. No news there. But there were some noteworthy points of interest, including a plunging-V short onesie and full skirts with bustiers precisely matched to expose a finger-width of midsection. Both looked fresh. As usual, surface detail made all the difference, from square paillettes employed to give the flower print a pixelated effect to encrustations of geometric beading that wrapped around a tulle sheath like a psychedelic ribbon. And for some, the solid shades of fuchsia, magenta, and hibiscus might be trippy enough. It s quite incredible to think that the zippered slits down bodices qualified as the collection s most restrained embellishment. A flash of side boob compared to a blitz of beading. Take your pick.
