Peter Dundas designed one of Poppy Delevingne’s wedding dresses in 2014 (the other was custom Chanel) and here she is returning the favor, starring in his new resort lookbook. Back then Dundas was heading up Emilio Pucci, now he’s running his own label. There’s a through line—he’s always been the guy to go to when you want to be noticed—but his bourgeois bohemian leans sexier today. The cropped long sleeved top that’s one-half of a two-piece set reveals a hint of underboob, the black leather hot pants that accompany a leopard print jacket are high cut on the sides, and for underpinnings his ’70s-style pantsuits come with sheer bras and garters.
“She wants to be seen,” Dundas said on a phone call from Paris, where he’s selling the collection. The quiet luxury trend that’s taken over the industry doesn’t apply here. “Honestly, I don’t think about it too much,” he said. “My woman is so defined.” On that note, the body conscious white dress that’s been a signature of Dundas’s since Gwyneth Paltrow turned heads in a side- and back-lacing white number of his circa 2010 (whiplash is more like it) got a nip and a tweak. This season’s version is almost entirely backless, its skirt suspended from a delicate string. But overall, the décolletage was this collection’s erogenous zone. His woman will be able to take her pick from a plunge-front mini caftan in all-over crocodile embroidery, a stretch jersey number with a peephole neckline and side cutouts, and a jumpsuit with a deeply draped scarf bodice.
