Best known as the man behind Anna Sui s distinctive knits, James Coviello has been slowly building up his own sportswear line over the last two years. His spring collection was conclusive proof that he has an eye—and a wit—all his own.
Like many designers of his generation, Coviello likes to work a bit of retro irony into his collection, but he kept it from being cloying by adding just a touch of tough street edge. He took spring s ubiquitous sherbet colors and pushed them just a few hues deeper, resulting in unusual, interesting combinations: mauve and yellow, chartreuse and raspberry, lime and nude tones. A Fair Isle sweater got reworked as a ballet-neck tank top, paired with a skinny skirt; a full-skirted, floral-print dress was saved from becoming saccharine by the addition of a goofy, oversize bow and a very genteel black leather dog collar at the throat. Coviello s basics—pencil skirts, loose jackets and slim trousers—played smart second fiddle to lovely crocheted tops and snappy striped cardigans.
