Suede pants laminated to the body. Leather jackets that fit like a glove. Hemlines that leave little, if anything, to the imagination. If this is what turns you on, then Costume National designer Ennio Capasa is your man.
The collection wasn t all about steam, though. It takes a confident hand to stitch a web of seams into a pair of skintight blush-pink suede pants without making them look either clumsy or banal. And there was plenty of skill evident in skinny hand-brushed leather jackets and cotton macs, with sheer side panels, that emphasized the designer s beloved hourglass silhouette. Or wispy chiffon tops whose butterfly-shaped sleeves fluttered as the models glided by.
Capasa also served up some surprises with color: Combinations like lemon and powder pink (!), mint and mauve (see the suede accessories), and lilac and pale blue suffused the raunchier pieces with a fresh, upbeat spirit. Which is not to say there wasn t plenty of his trademark noir, spun into curvilinear satin micro dresses, or long evening gowns in—what else?—transparent chiffon. This is fashion that favors the brave.
