Schwerpunkt, the brutal-sounding name Alexandre Plokhov gave his spring show, is actually quite benign. It means "focal point," and one thing you could most definitely say about Plokhov s new collection is that it was focused. After fall s tweedy detour, the designer went right back to his music tribes for inspiration. The graphic precision of New Wave was flagged by red accents in a predominantly dark collection. The detailing—cap sleeves, narrow little button-downs or cuffs, kerchiefs, side-laced shoes, even the artistic bleach treatments—also evoked the pop revival that followed punk in the eighties (ex-Pistol Glen Matlock s Rich Kids, say), injecting some punch into Plokhov s usual lean, mean repertoire.
"Schwerpunkt" is also a World War II war game, and there was a hint of the military in funnel-necked tops and a parachute-strapped bomber. What stood out more were dandified, almost feminine flourishes, like the parka that tied at the side in a big bow, or the sheer white outfit that could have passed for Plokhov s take on the bridal rig that used to close a fashion show. That suggested elegant new leanings for Cloak. But it may be time to fine-tune the presentation. Plokhov s glaring mannequins stomping fast and furiously toward the ranks of cameramen made one feel we ve passed this Punkt before.
