The starting point for Alice Roi s spring collection was La Petite Voleuse (The Little Thief), a coming-of-age film directed by François Truffaut and starring Charlotte Gainsbourg. That movie was released in 1988, and the show s soundtrack (Black Flag, Smashing Pumpkins, Cake) and boxy, flared-shouldered silhouettes also referenced the late eighties/early nineties, a time when fashion was more bold than frilly. In other words, there was less emphasis than usual on the girly prettiness Roi fans have come to know. Familiar ruffle-sleeved blouses and pinafore-style dresses played supporting roles to tougher zip-front jumpers and skinny-legged pants, and one notable pair of bleached jeans. The resulting mix wasn t always on target. Roi described the collection as being a battle between "pretty, girly and more conceptual clothes, between hard and soft," but it s not hard to see where her heart lies. The pieces that stood out gently filtered prep looks through an eighties filter: a tee dress with a collegiate cardigan, a slouch jacket, a jumper over a blouse—all nick-able Roi staples.
