Sheerness has become a feature of many London presentations this season, Markus Lupfer s Armand Basi One show included. It s an oddity that may reflect the current obsession among the city s young designers with reliving the early nineties, when visible underwear and nipples were commonplace on the runway. (Odd, because if memory serves, no woman ever wore those particular looks outside a fashion shoot.) Aside from the see-through organza shirts, dresses with sheer windows, and even pants made from a kind of black netting, Lupfer is still fascinated by structured volumes, cutting skirts with jutting peplums and showing a line of banana-legged pants. To give him his due, he has been working those pants since before they appeared on a YSL runway, so maybe this season their moment will finally come.
