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If there was something particularly youthful about Vanessa Seward s Azzaro collection, you can blame her 5-month-old baby, Jacqueline. "They re like little girl s dresses, but more grown-up," she said of a group of short frocks in cotton dot with ruffles at the shoulders, hem, and neckline. A micro-floral print—discovered in the archives of Abraham, a fabric supplier to Paris couture houses, and used here on a shirtdress and a blouson minidress—kept the theme going.

Then out came a thigh-skimming navy shift with a plunging V-shaped tulle inset lined in crystals. Maybe the Azzaro woman isn t so innocent after all. The bare back of a halterneck dress seemed to say as much, as did the side cutouts on the collection s best look, which featured a crystal-smothered bodice and tiered white silk skirt connected by a big black bow.

Seward shows her collection in the Faubourg Saint-Honoré store s intimate second-floor salon, with the models making fast changes in a pair of dressing rooms, and her assistants showing off alternate versions of each dress on hangers. There were a few floor-length lookers it would ve been nice to see on the girls, not only because long is such a big story for Spring, but also because it would ve added some grown-up variety. Still, this show was long on charm.