Hannah MacGibbon still loves beige. That hasn t changed, but there was a welcome lightness in her Spring collection. If last season s Chloé girl was headed off to work in seventies-inflected sportswear, now she looks like she s on her way to dance rehearsal. A typical outfit was a nude leotard with a scooped-out back and a matching below-the-knee pleated skirt, worn with red ballet flats. Another: a bodysuit plus sheer tutulike skirt, with shorts underneath to address the sheerness factor.
That last look in particular had some of the girlishness that used to be this label s defining factor. For the most part, though, MacGibbon was working a minimal look, as evidenced by the collection s coats—unadorned, save for a few shiny buttons, and cut in black, ivory, or red crepe (the collection s one shot of bright color). The tonal way a top matched a pair of track pants, say, or a slim, slightly A-line skirt also contributed to the pared-down vibe. At times, the white shirting fabric used for full-skirted dresses and blouses felt a bit too clinical. Overall, the collection could ve used more of the summery heat implied by those breezy skirts.