The weight of research behind every Issey Miyake collection, captured in the seasonal manifesto that is distributed at each show, could hobble one s enjoyment of the clothes themselves, were it not for the fact that creative director Dai Fujiwara manages to produce things that float effortlessly into one s brainpan and linger there. It was especially easy with today s show, which took ghosts as its starting point. Japan has a great track record for unhinging the Western world with spooky visions (start with Ring and proceed inexorably toward Audition), but Fujiwara chose to launch his show with a voice-over from cuddly Alfred Hitchcock, after which his ghosts were relatively genteel visions. The house s fabric technology was apparent in a strapless dress with origami reliefs, or a full-length piece in an open-weave lattice. Then a more spectral feel kicked in with sheer items: a purple Aertex coat, a translucent shawl over a dress in a pale yellow techno lace, a transparent striped poncho. Miyake s signature micro pleats gave a graphic smock and the finale jacket an undulating life of their own, as though they were breathing. It was subtly effective, maybe too much so, because after a string of knockout shows, you had the feeling that Fujiwara was taking a breather.
