It s official, white is the new camel. Like Alexander Wang and Joseph Altuzarra yesterday, Thakoon Panichgul opened his show with a series of looks in that pale shade: a trim twill jacket with a detachable breakaway hem atop paper-bag shorts, a double-breasted pantsuit, a shift with chiffon sleeves. All the virginal Swiss eyelet might have given the collection a demure feeling, had Panichgul not sexed it up with oversize hook-and-eyes and strappings. These faintly suggested bondage, and not so faintly revealed a good deal of skin.
This designer came into his own during fashion s recent dress craze, but he was smart enough to sharpen his lineup for Spring. Mixed in among the boudoir-ish gauzy gowns and sheer wallpaper organza tank dresses were tailored pieces, some in mattress-ticking stripes or denim. A chambray blue vest and matching boot-cut jeans had audience favorite written all over it. The other contender was a T-shirt dress in matte python sequins, its loose drape reminiscent of past hits. All in all? A positive development for Panichgul, who pushed himself beyond his comfort zone while remaining in step with what we ve seen elsewhere this season
