Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri have connected with the in crowd. The studded patent kitten heels from their last collection are among this fashion season s It-est shoes—no small feat, considering the kind of girls we re talking about are used to wearing 110-mm stilettos to lunch. Something about the duo s new take on Valentino s signature elegance looks fresh to the under-35 set, and they re buying. In response, perhaps, the designers focused Spring collection wasn t so much a step forward as it was a refinement of ideas they proposed for Fall.
In other words, there were a lot of ruffles, and even more lace—the former, especially, rendered more subtly this season. The show s most memorable dress boasted a floral motif embroidered from gold foil thread, but lace stitched from strips of crinoline on tulle and cut into a coat-dress, skirts, and even a pair of shorts also displayed incredible couturelike workmanship. In step with the season, Piccioli and Chiuri did long-sleeved maxi dresses belted high on the waist, including one in Valentino s signature red.
But even their party girls can t live on cocktails alone, so daywear didn t get short shrift. The season s omnipresent shirtdress came in a deep pink crepe, ruffled skirtsuits were cut in straightforward cotton or denim (yes, you read that right), and a black leather jacket was spliced with raffia. This time, shoes came with a slightly higher heel and gold chain ankle straps, and last season s studs reappeared as trim on day bags.
Valentino, the man himself, seemed pleased as he was escorted backstage afterward. This collection will keep the young Hollywood and Euro-aristo sets in dresses all summer long.
