David Bowie had pride of place on Ennio Capasa s mood board. The designer called his Spring collection New Wave Safari, tipping his hat to "African Night Flight," Bowie s song—from 1979 s Lodger—about a trip from London to Mombasa. Those two cities made up the breakdown of the Spring collection. Mombasa was represented by forays into the Saharienne, neck scarves, and slightly swashbuckling side-buckle pants. It was, on the whole, more successful than the London section, of tailored pieces playing off New Wave volumes. Bowie s glamorous spirit continues to be conjured by designers of every stripe; in only one day of Milan shows, it s been specifically incarnated twice. It begs the question, how many more rubs of genie s bottle before he refuses to answer?
