The theme may have been "Total Darkness," but Jen Kao s new collection—her most focused to date—proves that right now, everything is illuminated for this young designer. Inspired by the concept of structured haikus, Kao s Spring lineup combined asymmetrical hemlines and origami-like folds with high-tech sportswear fabrics. The result was clean, wearable pieces that still had a poetic edge to them.
Rip-stop judo jackets and pants came accented with rubberized mesh that glowed in the dark, for example, and a simple shift dress was cut from Latex-bonded jersey that s typically used for athletic compression braces. Kao further nodded to Japanese culture with the stacked wooden geta sandals that the models expertly clomped around in, as well as block-print T-shirts portraying "en masse manta ray migrations" (sounds weird, looked cool). The finale look—a camouflage denim utility jacket with bungee-cord trim and matching jeans—was ultimately the most covetable here. While it was also the most trendy moment this season, it was still distinctly Kao s.
