For a far-flung inspiration, look no further than Kimberly Ovitz s Spring muse: Almagul Menlibayeva, a Kazakhstani performance artist who filters cultural experiences through the dual lenses of Soviet-era Russian futurism and a nomadic view of contemporary Kazakhstan. Sound heady? It is, but there are fewer muses as evergreen as the nomad, and through Menlibayeva s oeuvre, Ovitz honed in on the easy appeal of a wanderer s wardrobe.
Draping, transparency, and paneled layering were the core elements at work here, and the collection was heavy on ephemeral dresses that moved fluidly around the body. A tighter edit would have made the subtle features on these pieces stand out more: There was raised textural detailing on an otherwise simple white dress, and the angle of the hems on relaxed pants was cut upward at the ankle like a triangle. As it was, the loosened-up silhouette made the few structured outerwear pieces really pop. A sweatshirt vest in heather gray and a cropped white jacket had a refreshing crispness while still looking lightweight enough to wear on the road. There were strictly body-con dresses, too, but the best looks incorporated movement and structure, such as a slinky jersey dress with one broad strap in textured leather. The collection s desert palette of black and nude (with one digital print abstracted from crystals spotted on a design field trip to the American Museum of Natural History and a few looks in emerald green) made the clothes feel like foundation pieces. They will look sharper with shoes (the models went barefoot) and should stand up to city styling.
