Pierre Balmain was founded as a sister line to Balmain. Judging by Spring, the family tree is branching. The recognizable signatures of Balmain—rock n roll, embellishment, luxury, and urbane cool—were mostly absent here. Instead, Pierre Balmain turned out to be a sweet collection aimed at gamines and their would-be worldwide counterparts. (It can t be an accident that the digital fashion show the brand streamed today was taped from a runway outing in Beijing, cast with largely Asian models.) The clothes were a fantasy of polite bourgeois chic, with cropped, tapered trousers, flared skirts, and peplum-accented tops. Even perforated peekaboo pieces and a smattering of motorcycle jackets didn t add much edge. Arguably, they didn t need to. Related or not, Pierre Balmain is a separate line from Balmain and designed by a separate team from its sibling. But this collection marked a change from the label s first two seasons, when it served as a wanted and needed entry point for aspiring Balmainiacs on a budget. You sense that this member of the family is still forming her identity.
