Finding a course for a fur label in the Spring/Summer season is a daunting task. Unfortunately for Revillon s Andrew Heather, he looked for inspiration to Marie Antoinette and the Grand Trianon, the rococo splendor of which failed to jibe with a Paris season so far defined by designers renewed explorations of minimalism. The sheared mink redingote of Heather s Resort collection for the label suggested that he s more than capable of quiet luxury, but that wasn t in the cards today—not with coats made from laser-cut ponyskin and python in shades of shocking pink and cerulean blue. A trio of coats constructed with strips of fox fur stitched into teardrop shapes affirmed Heather s masterful technique—learned over the course of ten-plus years at Givenchy, many of which were spent in the couture atelier. But again the results came off more than a bit de trop. A pair of white astrakhan coats, subtle in their splendor, pointed in the direction Heather should go next season.
