Luisa Beccaria s show is a friends-and-family affair. Many international editors have crossed it off their list because, let s face it, there just aren t that many ways to reinvent the party frock. But Beccaria and her daughter Lucilla Bonaccorsi, who design together, do have a way with an occasion dress. And within the narrow, rather precious niche they ve established for themselves, they do innovate.
Their freshest idea for Spring was to laser-cut humble cotton into narrow strips that they affixed onto tulle. The resulting coral-on-white sheath was crisp, not clingy; its demureness gave it a real appeal. Bonaccorsi s hand was evident in newer, youthful shapes like the crop tops, which were a success, and the shorts-under-a-dress look, which may be happening on other runways but was less convincing here. Elsewhere, iridescent butterflies embroidered on the bodice of a gown and the hem of a shorter cocktail number were a shade too chaste. But falling squarely in the designers sweet spot this season was a cotton voile V-neck shirtdress with covered buttons and light blue lace appliqué. Nothing life-changing about it, but in this case, pretty was enough.
