Reed Krakoff was making headlines before his show started today. It was announced that the designer and a group of partners have closed on the purchase of his business from Coach. His Spring show augured well for the brand s future. Krakoff has established his minimalist codes, and slowly he s evolving them. After a nice Fall outing focused on tailoring, this season he took more of a dressmaker s approach. "It s super-fluid and feminine," he said of his collection before the show. The first dress had ruched details and raw-edged, asymmetrical hems; it came in a chintzed nude chiffon with a lacquered sheen. Slipdresses have become one of the big developments of the week, and Krakoff has inserted himself into that picture.
He also had a few things to contribute to the emerging sporty story. There were tracksuits in fluid twill, a white mesh sweatshirt with delicate black ivy embroidery, and most appealing, a very luxe take on a sexy sleeveless dress we ll call the wrapped towel (a Spring micro-trend). A sleeveless trench in the same substantial bonded satin also looked good. Where Krakoff was most innovative was his suiting. A leather shell that wrapped in the back was made from a single piece of fabric, with no side seams, and the vest underneath a white linen coat was constructed from the hem of its lapel. It was a deceptively simple trompe l oeil trick that was actually incredibly difficult to pull off. There is a cool precision to Krakoff s tailoring. It might take some time until his dressmaker skills are as confident as that coat, but give him a hand for trying.
