After years of presenting in Sydney, Australian label Zimmermann took a major leap and made its official New York fashion week debut today. "It s a progression for our business and where I want to be in terms of creativity," said designer Nicky Zimmermann after her Spring runway show. Entitled Ringmaster, the new collection had a circus theme, which was fitting, considering how the scene at Lincoln Center often is. Zimmermann interpreted the concept literally, adding theatrical neck ruffles to diaphanous organza frocks with a harlequin diamond pattern, and incorporating a drippy black-and-white "mascara" print (an ode to melting stage makeup) into several looks, including the finale number worn by Ruby Jean Wilson. Although most girls wouldn t be caught dead in clothes with clown faces on them (some pieces made it into the mix), the lineup never came across as too costumey. Standouts included a graphic eyelet lace "cross-body" dress with arching—almost acrobatic—cutouts at the bust and torso, as well as a champagne-colored satin coat with a curved, asymmetric tail and a supple pink leather circle skirt. Although Zimmermann is best known for its swimsuits, the racy bikinis seemed out of place here at times; but overall, things are looking up for the Down Under brand stateside.
