"Chloë s old room in Darien is waiting for her," Jay McInerney wrote in his 1994 New Yorker profile of the then-19-year-old downtown It girl. With her collections for Opening Ceremony, Chloë Sevigny tends to head home—in part at least. "Every season I m torn between the nice Connecticut girl, the alterna-girl, and the hip-hop girl, so it s a mishmash of that," she offered while presenting her Spring fare alongside O.C. s Humberto Leon. This season Heathers was fresh in Sevigny s mind; the tale of high school savagery could be traced in off-the-shoulder rib-knit dresses, boxy plaid blazers, and deceivingly sweet mini-kilts with suspenders. Team them with a croquet mallet and the collection s covetable footwear, peep-toe Mary Janes trimmed in bows. "Now that I m pushing 40, I feel like I m not supposed to wear ruffles, but I still want to!" she said. "So I tried to incorporate them in ways that looked a little tougher, or a little more mature, but also sweet." Those Mary Janes, it s worth noting, came with lug soles. Other notable bits of badassery? A light, unlined take on a black trench worn by Christian Slater in Heathers, and baseball hats and tees emblazoned with the charmingly vague "Tri-State Represent."
But it wasn t all school days. Sevigny conjured vintage Yohji through baggy overalls in dark pinstriped denim with simple D-ring detailing. That fabric found other life as a boxy coat and as jeans—both with (subtle) ruffles. Leon stood by, laughing, as the actress slipped into a jacket. "She s her own number one fan of the collection," he said. "She always makes things that she wants." You get the sense plenty of other cool girls will want them, too.