From Marc by Marc Jacobs to McQ, Spring 15 is shaping up to be the season of the rave. Psychedelia and rave culture have popped up in a number of collections, but the theme might have been most authentic at Lulu Co s debut London fashion week presentation. That s because creative director Lulu Kennedy was quite the rave queen back in the 90s. During a spell in Naples, she hosted raves in castles and warehouses, and enlisted DJs from around the world, including London s legendary Princess Julia, to spin. "It changed my life in a good way," Kennedy said of her raving youth. "The message behind it is unity and love and feeling good and embracing difference. I think that s as relevant today as it was then."
Kennedy was also inspired by Sun Ra, an Afro-futurist jazz musician who believed he was from Saturn. With the help of this season s collaborator, Louise Gray, these influences were translated into techno color schemes and zany prints. An abstract molecule motif in violet and electric green covered cropped athletic pants and a matching bra top, as well as a simple little V-neck shift. Sweatshirts and tees came splashed with Eye of Ra imagery and the phrase "Space Is the Place," after Sun Ra s best-known album. Elsewhere, deconstructed plaid in black and silver appeared on an effortless tea-length skirt, which was teamed with a punchy black, red, and violet T-shirt and custom black and white Louboutin trainers (which will, very sadly, not be for sale). On the dressier side, there were wild sequined skirts and slinky sequined spaghetti-strap frocks. But it s casualwear, like sweats and tanks, where Lulu Co really shines. Kennedy knows that—she knows what her customer wants, and she focused her energy on comfy, edgy daywear.
It s also worth noting that this is Kennedy s most cohesive season yet. Instead of tapping a collaborator to work on just a few looks as she usually does, Kennedy worked with Gray on every look, and it served her well. These out-there basics will appeal to East London kids and adventurous Lower Manhattan types alike. As for Spring 15 s rave trend, Kennedy offered, "I don t know why everyone s doing it, but I ve never stopped." Keep on raving, Lulu.
