It s Alessandro Dell Acqua s second season at Rochas, and he s made some adjustments since his rocky debut this February. For Spring, a hummingbird pattern that he lifted from the archives and used as both a print on georgette and as a beaded embroidery on silk faille signaled his intention to lighten things up. His fabrics were often transparent or nearly so. The hand-painted flocked organza of a button-down shirt and a full, calf-length skirt was opulent yet airy. And Dell Acqua went gung ho for lace, patchworking Chantilly and guipure and macramé on a single slipdress or layering a strapless lace smock over a longer, narrower lace skirt.
Back in Milan, Dell Acqua s successful No. 21 line has become the home of the mash-up. He brought some of his preferences for unlikely combinations to bear on the new Rochas—the models ribbed ankle socks and paillette-strewn slingbacks being a prime example. Layered over many of today s delicate, feminine dresses were webbed military belts cinched high above the bust, their buckles stamped "R" for Rochas (a logo motif that turned up elsewhere on button-downs and jackets). It s unclear what the designer was going for with that styling move. Rock climber? Geisha? Kirsten Owen looked like she had a seat belt strapped across her chest. There s not much allure in that. Dell Acqua already has a sophisticated eye for fabric. The next step is learning to believe in the beauty of a simple dress.
