Most of the time, getting dressed is the culmination of a private interaction between a woman and her mirror. That ritual of self-care—and, one hopes, of self-love—is what Alexis Mabille said he wanted to capture with his new couture collection.
Mirror, Mirror, as he named the show, was a reflection not only on what to actually wear, but the intimacy of the act of putting on makeup: choosing this or that blush, applying a sweep of eyeliner or lip color, defining both individual features and a mood of the day. The concept is universal, but the details vary infinitely depending on the person and place. Mabille addressed the theme specifically on two satin jersey sheaths, one featuring a Marilyn mouth and the other with a Cleopatra eye, but overall he evoked a spectrum of possibilities with a soft touch because, after all, summer is about lightness.
The show opened with pearly, powdery hues of white, ivory, porcelain, and blush, moving toward deeper tones of nude as the show progressed. In addition to addressing diverse complexions, the designer aimed to incorporate various body types, illustrating his range with, on one hand, the transparency of lace, which looked fresh on a bralette and skirt ensemble, and, on the other, womanly styles that would suit most bodies on any occasion. Familiar signatures reprised here included a bustier gown in rice-powder silk piqué and a smattering of shirt dresses, for example in chocolate casimir or with batwing sleeves. Being well-versed in Hollywood glamour, he also offered up a few befeathered ideas, notably a silk crêpe peignoir style in a stunning (and universally flattering) shade of dark gold.
Though the show cast a wide net, it was also one of Mabille s strongest outings in recent seasons. Backstage, the designer declined to play favorites. “I’d like to wear them all if I were a woman,” he quipped. The designer has a loyal base of clients; whatever their color, age, or shape, they will find things they’d like to wear here, too.
