Last season, Susan Fang unveiled a heartwarming collection that combined her technical prowess with a talent for translating emotions into garments. Her father’s creation of sci-fi mist wings also added an impressive layer of showmanship. For spring, the burgeoning Chinese designer—who has rapidly gained recognition—explored the role of artificial intelligence in the context of the natural world. She elaborated in a preview, saying, “While there’s a lot of fear surrounding AI, I wanted to romanticize the idea of the robot and how it might connect with the human subconscious.”
To convey the notion of idealizing robots, Fang erected a 20-foot architectural structure at the center of her show space. The statue took the form of a winged figure constructed from metal poles and a resilient technical fabric typically used for tents. Explaining her decision to create the gargantuan piece, Fang said, “It symbolizes how technology can be perceived as something sacred—a robotic angel that ascends to assert itself as an object of worship and admiration.”
While the structure felt domineering, almost menacing, this season’s garments delivered an endearing softness in contrast. There were opulent transparent lace dresses, as well as separates adorned with AI-generated prints merged with hand-drawn floral illustrations to “maintain a human touch while injecting the electricity of technology.” There was also an introduction to air-weave smocking, a technique that constructs strips of fabrics layer by layer through a blend of mechanics and craftsmanship—further adding to the collection’s theme. It imparted an ethereal, weightless quality akin to drifting smoke, while appearing gracious in motion. The smocking came in the form of flowy skirts and dresses that felt sweet yet ethereal. Broderie anglaise, ruffled tulle, and netted frocks come tiered and with low-slung, skater-style skirts. The showstopper was a 3D dress covered with 600 protruding beads, emulating the silhouette of baby’s breath, meticulously handcrafted by a group of mothers in China.
Fang’s expanding accessory line featured futuristic eyewear decorated with bio-inspired flowers and a set of four resin clutch bags. Each bag represented a distinct tone: orange for twilight, pink for rainy days, turquoise for the union of sky and earth, and brown and blue for the spectacle that is observing the sun from outer space.
Sustainability remains at the core of the label’s ethos, with 90% of the materials a blend of imported stock fabrics from its own print factory and surplus from luxury brands. The Susan Fang universe evolves without straying from its values and its delicate, hands-on approach to innovation. Plus the front row dressed head to toe in Fang’s creations was testament to the power of her growing following.
