“I always just like to have people here to relax and enjoy,” said Julie de Libran as guests lingered through the main spaces of her home following a decidedly glamorous lineup that featured dresses glistening, gleaming, and sparkling all over.
There were echoes of Art Deco and allusions to armor. Fringed silvery chains encircled the skirt of one dazzling ensemble; gold chains as decorative outlines adorned a more sober gown. A dress train draped across a forearm, while a frothy feathered boa became a curving cape. From a two-tone coat dress to a one-shoulder sheath in cashmere, faint rays of Coco, Karl, and Yves refracted through de Libran’s couture prism.
This array of Parisian-inflected opulence would seem destined for soirees, red carpets, and so forth, yet the vibe was surprisingly subdued, as Lila Dupont, a budding young music artist, played guitar while singing her own introspective folk songs (notwithstanding Neil Young’s “Harvest Moon”). The cognitive dissonance was not necessarily unwelcome; we were seeing these women all dressed up with somewhere to go just as they were getting into character.
De Libran’s conscious approach to production means she favors a smaller number of looks that are as distinct as possible. This also helps meet different client expectations: One might zero in on a single dress that speaks to her, while another with a more demanding social calendar (and a higher budget) could amass several with no two alike. The greater size range, if not age range, also captured a sensitivity to her clients. With her niece and a friend, plus the daughters of some of her friends among the mix, it was suddenly apparent that some body-conscious silhouettes were aiming at the next generation of couture hopefuls.
Asked whether she designs with the mindset of dressing for ourselves, for others, or both, de Libran replied, “I dress for myself and my mood and how I want to conquer my day.” She called the models her “Amazons,” and their scarlet lips and pulled-back hair recalled the iconic Robert Palmer music video for “Simply Irresistible.” But another homage helped explain the mood. De Libran dedicated this collection to her friend Dayle Haddon, the model and actor who passed away exactly one month ago. Strong and sumptuous, it was a memorable tribute.
