Observing the crowd at the Elysée Montmartre, one got the impression that Bluemarble’s 68K-plus followers would show up in droves whether it showed its wares in Paris or on the moon.
This season, guests included NBA star Jaren Jackson Jr., who posed for photographers wearing an extra-long-sleeved T-shirt from the fall 2024 collection. “When you put this on, it just kind of forces you to have it all ready,” he said, allowing that his “mall-sized” closet is stocked with a good number of pieces. Several people turned up in one of the brand’s whopper hats: backstage, designer Anthony Alvarez noted that demand for those has been such that, come September, the brand will introduce a hat capsule.
Now that Bluemarble is five-years-old and growing fast, Alvarez noted that he had been thinking about how to break new boundaries. The butterfly effect, borrowed from chaos theory—for example, how a simple flutter of wings might alter weather patterns—was one throughline.
That visual metaphor somehow resulted in a camo designed to pop, in green or orange-red iterations, perhaps paired with a chapka flopping with feather trim, a matching gilet and a cargo skirt that pointed to how Bluemarble is expanding for its female fans. Equally universal was a zebra-striped ensemble in soft, ozone-treated fabric heavily encrusted with rhinestones. Those pieces had all the makings of cult-like signifiers. So did lavishly embroidered trousers with, variously, large-scale floral motifs or a trompe l’oeil wallet keychain with a crystal key pointing sassily to the crotch.
But there were also plenty of options for the more subtle dressers out there: these included structured dry knits, tanks and tees for layering, starburst sweaters, structured coats and tailored trousers that flared slightly at the hem. Of a first loafer, Alvarez said he was “mixing the best of both worlds” by blending a traditional shape with punk coils and a plaque at the heel. Those looked strong, as did an oversized canvas carryall inspired by the ones postal workers used to use. Here and there, lengthy message patches quoted the astronaut Alexander Gerst, who said: “From up here it is crystal clear that on Earth we are one humanity.” From the front row, Bluemarble’s path looks pretty clear, too.
