Matteo Tamburini took Tod’s on a Mediterranean journey, infusing the spring collection with a breezy sense of ease and subtle nods to sportswear. His moodboard featured images of Italian summer landscapes captured by photographer Luigi Ghirri, alongside Carlo Borlenghi s regatta photography and primitive Cycladic sculptures. The Italian cycling champion Fausto Coppi also made an appearance. Tamburini had shared these references on Instagram, along with pictures from an old editorial of an elegant minimalist dress captioned “A perfect reminder of how simplicity and bold design can still captivate.” This clarity of purpose pretty much summarizes the approach to creative direction he has brought to Tod’s.
The brand’s devotion to craftsmanship was highlighted at the show’s venue, where on long worktables 60 artisans from Tod’s factory gave a live demonstration of how Gommino moccasins are assembled. To further showcase the fatto a mano credentials, a majestic sculpture by artist Lorenzo Quinn—depicting two giant hands holding a ribbon—was prominently displayed on the runway.
Crafted mostly from leather treated to achieve malleable textures, the collection explored the play between structure and fluidity. Tamburini, who was formerly Bottega Veneta’s head designer, treaded lightly on references, focusing on a sense of ease without detracting from the appeal of inventive design.
Subtle nods to the lightness of sails introduced dynamic volumes, as in a cotton parka with an attached, billowing cape. The archetypal sculptural spareness of Cycladic votive statues was echoed in bold silhouettes that had presence, yet looked effortless. Classic vertical draping was reimagined in a long fluid chiton in forest green pleated leather, as well as in the final look worn by Mariacarla Boscono—a striking black column gown with a peplum detail.
At the press conference, when asked whether he thinks bold design choices are still viable in today’s circumstances, Tamburini responded: “The challenging environment we face now doesn’t exactly encourage taking risks or embracing daring experimentation. Designers are often confronted with a choice: They can either conform their creative vision to the demands of marketing and play it safe, or they can opt for a more courageous, innovative approach. I chose to pursue the latter, to create something more impactful.”
