In February last year, Camille Perry and Holly Wright realized their considered vision for Tove, the label they founded in 2019, on the runway. Tove had already cultivated a loyal audience, who were magnetized by their elegant, yet slightly undone, proposition for womenswear––representative of a certain London spirit captured perfectly with their approach to silhouettes.
After a catwalk hiatus for fall––they instead showed via a look book––Tove was back on the schedule at London Fashion Week, returning to Senate House, where they made their debut. “It was about starting afresh,” said Wright of the early stages of the design process. “We looked at what felt new and exciting, what felt right at the time.” Perry added: “It was very much about building out the [the Tove woman’s] world: what do we feel like she needs? What are we not offering her?”
At a preview, as the designers stood beside the lineup board and rails of the spring collection, surrounded by an all-female team in the studio, they talked about their “female gaze” and how it informs every decision they make. “There’s a lot of confidence that comes with that,” said Wright. Perry pulled out an intentionally creased, but still somewhat crisp shirt with silver buttons: “We always say the Tove woman should feel elevated; be the envy of women in the room.”
Conversation moved on to a Tipp-Ex white, coated-linen trench coat––which, at the show, was styled with tapered white trousers and a pair of their new mules––then a fishnet top covered in hand-sewn crystals. It was followed by super-fine, gauzy mesh long-sleeve tops, and a vanilla draped dress made from the same chiffon. On the subject of dresses (a Tove specialty), there were plenty of new-season options: two sultry black styles, one sheer on the top and one made from thin Italian jersey (flourished with the type of mini train that is actually feasible to wear to an event); a generous crinkled-linen style with a deep-cut, V neckline; and a sage silk maxi, to name but a few. Plays on print and texture, elements Perry and Wright push further with each collection, took form as tie-dye denim, stripes on tailoring, a criss-cross pattern on matching separates and a dress, and a fuzzy chiffon that looked feathered.
Shoes made a well-received entrance for spring. Pointed-toe mules constructed from elasticated strands and supple leather lace-up sandals were fitting complements for the easy ready-to-wear. After a collaboration with fellow London talent Completedworks, Tove now counts own-brand jewelry in its offering––large ribbon earrings that are surprisingly lightweight, cuffs and sculptural pendants––in addition to slouchy totes with metal beads on ties at the edges.
Terms like minimalism and quiet luxury would be too broad for Tove’s style manifesto. “It all comes from a really personal place,” said Perry. And you can tell.
