The headline at Fear of God was the release of its first full womenswear offer as part of this “collection 9” reveal. However while chatting Jerry Lorenzo illuminated several further developments at the brand. “We moved our design studio from Milan to Paris,” he said. “And we’re merging. We have an Essentials design team, we had an Athletics design team, we’re bringing them all underneath one team, inclusive of men’s and women’s.”
That process of consolidation was reflected in a collection Lorenzo called: “the crystallization of a complete offering.” This menswear facet of that contained many subtly evolved versions of FoG’s foundational paradigms. Kimono jackets hung fluidly on the rack with defined but unconstructed shoulders, and came fashioned in rip-stop cashmere. Pants were painstakingly proportioned to break in flowy pools of fabric at the ankle. Luxurified and sanded-smooth baseball codes acted as the seasonal signature, and came filtered through the same process of solemn refinement that Lorenzo applies to worn uniforms more broadly.
A pinstripe wool cashmere suit nodded toward baseball without being explicit. Double-faced wool coats, fleece-lined zipped bombers, and soft leather jackets were all similarly restrained. Denim truckers came in wanly weathered, bleached finishes.There were tees, hoodies and short sets made in Los Angeles alongside sporty, less ceremonial pieces cut in washed silk nylon and loopback fleece. Shoes were similarly distilled into lower-profile yet more potent versions of their previous Fear of God incarnations: minimal moccasin sneakers and slim-soled slides. The crumpled duffle bags were beautifully quiet.
“Every year I feel I’m exponentially better than I was the last,” said Lorenzo. “It’s that Dieter Rams idea of refining what already works.”
