“Don’t look back, you’re not going that way!” The words on the first sweater of this fun White Mountaineering collection summed everything up. Titled Evolution Theory, it served as a kind of chronological expedition through the history of outdoor fashion, beginning in the 1970s—back when Gore-Tex was first commercialized—and tracking how the scene has mutated since, into the considerable territory it occupies in the menswear universe today.
Backstage just before the show, Yosuke Aizawa was infectiously upbeat, and spoke about a passion for outdoor gear that had first been kindled by his late father. “My father loved American fashion—from outdoor, to military and sports,” he said. “Back then [outdoor clothing] was very heavy, but now because of the technology and the style it’s become a lot lighter.”
We began with a suitably retro color palette and denim cutoffs (the kind that hikers wore 50 years ago), along with metal scaffolding backpacks that recalled the Kelty aluminum frame backpack, which Aizawa said was his first memory of outdoor gear. The madras shirts were actually made from a polyester mesh; knits and synthetic leathers were engineered with modern technology to be as lightweight as possible. “I thought I would mix the past and future, bringing in the mood of the ’70s, but combining contemporary techniques to create something new,” Aizawa explained.
Then came contemporary takes on yoga wear, many of them part of White Mountaineering’s ongoing collaboration with Ecco, swishy striped pajamas (a big trend this week) and some uber-minimal unlined blazers that brought the futuristic vibe.
James Turrell and Richard Serra, two sculptors whose large-scale work interacts with the environment, were also credited as an influence on the collection. Aizawa had taken the artists’ approach to evoke a closeness to the outdoors, infusing a consciousness of air, light and the environment into the clothing (see particularly the vivid sky-print shirts and shorts, and the bronze-colored knits). The gradient bomber jackets in looks 10 and 27 stood out because of how punchy the colors were, while the black chapter at the end was filled with outdoorsy pieces that will no doubt sell well among real hikers and gorpy posers alike.
The show was about 15 looks too long—especially under the unforgiving bake of the midday sun—but Aizawa clearly had a lot to say with the clothes and for the most part said it well. “Now fashion is a little bit boring, with all these very simple fashion shows and quiet luxury,” he said. “My philosophy is about being much more passionate! I’m interested in color and innovation.” Gorpcore has already peaked in menswear, so Aizawa is wise to find new ways to go against the grain. The resulting collection was something that felt bold and, to bring it full circle, resolutely forward-looking.
