“Don’t hug me, I’m sweaty!” is the new air-kiss at the shows this season, and the hottest (or coolest) accessory to be seen with is a little electric fan. Madame Woo couldn’t possibly have predicted the ferocity of the Paris heat wave that has plagued the fashion set this week, but her summer-themed collection for Wooyoungmi was certainly timely.
Inspired by the increasingly hot and humid weather in Seoul (intolerable summers are happening everywhere), the designer proposed a wardrobe rooted in a more bearable lightness of being. In a preview, she spoke of pity for the younger generations today who, because of global warming, are unable to enjoy the carefree relaxation of summers past. “It’s a fantasy based on the imagery that comes to mind when we think of a perfect summer,” she said through a translator. “I was thinking of the idea of a picnic, with all the sunshine and the fresh air, or of a summer wedding.”
Tailcoats were reimagined in a superlight glossy viscose that glinted in the sunlight and billowed gently behind the models as they breezed through the open doors of the Maison de la Chimie. It was a way of subverting bygone tailoring into something breathable, boyish, and more suited for the season. “I tried to mix this idea of lightness with something very elegant,” said Woo. Sun-faded pastel jeans had gaps at the sides of the waistbands for ventilation, flashing striped swimwear underneath, while the white dress shirts had pearl-embellished collars (removable!) to make them party-ready for when the occasion demands.
The seersucker shirts and gauzy knits added some more realistic options for picnic dressing, as did the sweaters with removable buttoned plackets. There were also small basket bags intended for carrying lunch and larger raffia totes that could be unfolded into portable picnic blankets. Like the detachable collars, they were a genuinely useful proposition.
Though it’s unlikely they’ll be worn much IRL, the skimpy men’s swimsuits—inspired by early-20th-century styles—looked mighty inviting in the late-June heat. After a long week sweating through non-air-conditioned shows, you wanted to throw one on, head to Marseilles, and swim away to an idyllic time when it wasn’t quite so stifling. This afternoon, for a brief 10 minutes, that fantasy felt a little more real.
