It was noon on a Tuesday, but inside the Crane Club it was dark, dark, dark and smoky, and it seemed Daniella Kallmeyer was setting the mood for a sultry show. But it turned out Kallmeyer was in a totally different state of mind once the show began and instead there was a parade of easy tonal plaid linen suits, floral sundresses, and light oversized knits ready for a coastal getaway.
“We started this collection with a board of white and cotton as a palette cleanser, but it felt too serious to treat the Kallmeyer woman so preciously,” she said backstage shortly before the show began. She called it “spring in three acts.” “We begin with this very serene and calming palette of linens, butters, jades, and creams; and then there’s a burst of excitement. I wanted to evoke the beauty of sunshine and beach, but also the beauty of being out in nature—open skies, rolling hills, and forests that feels really good and calming,” explained the recent CFDA nominee for Womenswear Designer of the Year.
Although the overly dramatic soundtrack and the models’ slow pace didn’t necessarily transmit a feeling of joy in nature, there were plenty of great Kallmeyer pieces to be found. A gray and beige striped linen maxi tank dress seemed made for surviving ultra-hot summers when one still needs to look presentable and be comfortable. There were little crochet bras; her fan-favorite Clemence drawstring pants done in butter yellow linen; a purple and red checkered knit sweater; a cropped leather double-breasted jacket with a dramatic draped collar; a long silk taffeta balloon skirt with a gathered and embroidered detail at the hips. Silk scarves rounded out the looks; whether simply draped over the shoulders like a towel, or tucked underneath a suit jacket for added flair.
