“I wanted to explore my heritage through my queer experience because I didn’t have that representation growing up,” said Ludovic de Saint Sernin a few days before his striking look book—featuring Emma Chamberlain, Alexa Chung, Corey Fogelmanis (seemingly everywhere this PFW), and Sebastian Croft—was released into the world. “And I think that’s something I was definitely missing.”
Until now, de Saint Sernin has kept discreet about descending from French nobility. Only when he created a dress titled La Comtesse de Saint Sernin—in homage to his grandmother, a countess—as part of his guest collection for Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture did he begin to consider connecting his origin story to his creations. “I never explored that side of me in a fashion level before, and it’s part of my heritage,” he said. “I never got a chance to come out to my grandma because it was a conservative time and I didn’t want to ruffle any feathers or be a rebel of the system. And I think that I regret that. I feel like she would have probably come around. So that’s kind of the starting point of the collection.”
The four talents—along with models Summer Dirx, Fatou Kebbeh, Bo Van der Vloet, and Ana Beatriz Cortes—comprised what de Saint Sernin called his “new nobility.” And naturally they all needed to dress the part. Turns out de Saint Sernin has a softer side that he articulated here through tiers of fluid silk chiffon edged with feminine flounces and ivory lace with romantic ruffles. Similar looks in poplin suggested genteel underpinnings that might have been worn for bathing and sleeping centuries ago. With the addition of familiar waist-cinching corset belts, looks remained true to LdSS. The designer said he worked with a number of French maroquinerie (leather goods) workshops to develop the category even further, not just as an entry into the brand but also because they can be supremely versatile.
Were the his-and-hers looks in deep aubergine a twist on regal purple? The laced lace bras and pencil skirts suitable attire for a reception at the country house? Even at its most provocative, this collection benefited from some beautifully rendered ideas. The trench coat lined with lace, the men’s ensemble in fluid satin, and that sexy gray cotton number worn by Chung conjured different characters of a single family. Aristocratic roots are not a prerequisite, of course. Given de Saint Sernin’s new role as creative director for the music artist Tate McCrae and his popularity among young stars (brides too), this could mark the start of pop royalty’s ruffled era.
