“Collection after collection, you get more and more focused on the person who you want to talk to, and I think that happens naturally for many reasons,” said Niccolò Pasqualetti after their show at the Palais de Tokyo. “Even people who I become friends with, you are creating these relationships and you get a sense of reality.”
The lineup opened with an all-white ensemble and ended with an all-black look. While both bared the shoulders, the eye was drawn to the garment construction and how they appeared harmonious with the body.
Pasqualetti was a finalist for the LVMH Prize last year, and despite walking away empty-handed, they continue to build upon the complementary strengths of rigor and grace. This season, the forms and volumes were especially intriguing, as when a patchwork tunic of matte and glossy fabric entailed panels loosely tacked together, giving it a pleasing flow. Glance at Look 20 and notice trousers that are wide and sinuous without swallowing the legs, worn with what seemed like a classic knit vest, except that the buttons were deliberately asymmetrical and the knit gauge alternated in finer and denser degrees.
The duality between sporty and dressed up was in full effect as Pasqualetti created a number of asymmetric and adjustable swimsuit pieces, pairing them with something like a skirt that shimmered in sequined scales. The designer does not speak of sexiness, but trust that it is emanating from the innermost layers of a look outward.
The experimentation with handwork was also noteworthy, whether thick collars shimmering like way stations between garment and skin; wild fringes swishing down the unzipped length of a dress; or supple leather weaving on oversized vests and bombers that transitioned to dangling clusters of floral shapes. “Being more open to different approaches opens up the ways of working, and I kind of get more creative,” said Pasqualetti.
Some might point out that Pasqualetti’s intrecciato technique resembles a signature of a certain mega brand. Here, though, the approach was less uniform, retaining its curves from the moment it was crafted onto a bust form.
Intentional or otherwise, Pasqualetti’s notions of tailoring and glamour—even palette—exist in communion with Giorgio Armani. If not already, now is the time to discover the alluring ease of Pasqualetti’s clothes.
